Year in review: Wallpaper’s best fashion interviews of 2022
Wallpaper* trend options editor Jack Moss selects the very best trend interviews of 2022 – a more in-depth have a look at the figures who’ve outlined a 12 months in model. From the business’s most recognised names – Rick Owens, Manolo Blahnik, Giorgio Armani and Gabriela Hearst amongst them – to an rising era of designers carving new paths, these insightful and revealing conversations recap a definitive 12 months in trend.
TOP 10 FASHION INTERVIEWS OF 2022
01. Pieter Mulier on ‘fashionable magnificence’ and his imaginative and prescient for Alaïa
In Wallpaper’s September Fashion Problem, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier opened up about his imaginative and prescient for Alaïa, one 12 months after taking the helm. A pursuit of ‘fashionable magnificence’ is central to his strategy, melding the sensuality of forebear Azzedine Alaïa together with his up to date imaginative and prescient of womanhood. ‘Magnificence, physique, intercourse – [Alaïa] is the one place the place you should use the phrase intercourse with out being vulgar,’ he mentioned. ‘It’s intercourse that comes from the center, from the within, the place magnificence belongs and might be discovered.’
02. Satoshi Kondo speaks of Issey Miyake’s legacy
Talking after his S/S 2023 present for Issey Miyake – the primary assortment introduced after the dying of its eponymous founder in August 2022 – Satoshi Kondo paid homage to his forebear’s legacy of innovation and optimism. ‘Each assortment I [have] created with my crew is a mirrored image of what we realized from Miyake,’ Kondo mentioned, having develop into head designer in 2019. ‘Shifting ahead, as now we have at all times achieved prior to now, we’ll problem ourselves to create authentic, unprecedented clothes that brings a way of pleasure and surprise.’
03. Rick Owens talks from his ‘concrete palace’
As a part of our ‘At House With’ collection, the iconoclastic designer Rick Owens spoke about his working course of, discovering inspiration, and the ‘concrete palace’ he calls residence within the run-up to displaying his S/S 2023 menswear assortment in Paris (the sometimes dystopian setting noticed big metallic balls of fireplace dropped from cranes into the fountains in entrance of the Palais de Tokyo). ‘I’m on my terrace overlooking the gardens of the Ministry of Defence – the roses are simply beginning to bloom and the wisteria that at all times appears to battle a bit seems lush and assured this season,’ he started.
04. Ester Manas: the label making garments for each physique
‘It’s for a lady who actually needs to be seen,’ says Ester Manas of her eponymous label, which she designs alongside companion Balthazar Delepierre. Talking from their Belgian studio, Manas and Delepierre discuss their size-inclusive strategy, the place a garment can span sizes S-3XL in a singular garment utilizing intelligent tips of design. ‘I wished to do one thing for myself, as a result of I’m plus-size,’ says Manas. ‘After we began, again in 2016, it was not so cool to be huge. It was a difficulty. We thought we would have liked to handle that.’
05. Gabriela Hearst on sustainability and elegance at Chloé
That includes within the March 2022 Fashion Problem, we caught up with Gabriela Hearst, the artistic director of Parisian home Chloé on her sustainably-minded strategy to luxurious – a course of she likened to the creation of an Italian Caprese salad. ‘It is advisable to be working with the very best substances, nice tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella,’ she mentioned to Laura Hawkins. ‘Earlier than I joined Chloé, there was an oversight within the substances getting used to create its ultimate product.’
06. Manolo Blahnik: ‘the one factor you want is ardour’
Talking from his residence within the Canary Islands, the legendary Spanish shoe designer talked to Wallpaper* in a wide-ranging interview – from his present studying record to his all-time favorite dish (the bread and butter pudding from Wiltons restaurant on London’s Jermyn Road). He additionally shared his recommendation for a brand new era of creatives: ‘the one factor you want is ardour – a whole ardour for what you do, or what you are attempting to do,’ he mentioned.
07. In dialog: when Giorgio Armani met Paul Smith
As a part of Wallpaper’s October 2022 situation, Giorgio Armani proposed a dialog with fellow designer Paul Smith as a part of his visitor edit. Within the expansive interview, Armani and Smith talked store, discussing all the things from function fashions and profession highs to their sturdy Italian and British roots. ‘Generally I believe I might have beloved to be on the opposite facet, and be the one who asks questions – it’s a a lot simpler place in a means,’ mentioned Armani. ’Which, the truth is, is what has made this dialogue with you so pleasing.’
08. New York’s new era
Seven distinct designers made up our choose of New York’s new era of trend expertise, all of that are lifting the town’s trend week with their particular person interpretations of favor. From Rachel Scott’s Diotama – which attracts on the dancehall traditions of Jamaica, Kingston, the place she was born – to Carly Mark and Ayla Argentina’s ‘clumsy and stylish’ Puppets and Puppets, every speaks to Wallpaper* about what it means to be a younger designer in New York, and certainly America, right now.
09. Christophe Lemaire on his longtime collaboration with Uniqlo U
Christophe Lemaire’s collaboration with Uniqlo is one in every of trend’s most profitable partnerships; in October, he informed Wallpaper* the story behind his newest Uniqlo U assortment for the Japanese model, a modular wardrobe of reconsidered archetypes that are constructed to final. ‘As a designer, I’m extra into deep traits, and never seasonal traits,’ he mentioned from Paris. ‘It’s about having, or attempting to have, an understanding of the way in which individuals behave, their methods of life, their wants. That’s what I’m taken with.’
10. Edward Buchanan: ‘the artistic course of for me is gorgeous in addition to painful’
Edward Buchanan – who runs personal label Sansovino 6, in addition to consulting for Off-White and Agnona – drew inspiration from the biodiversity of New York’s Excessive Line for his collaboration with Italian label Fabiana Filippi. Scarlett Conlon spoke to Buchanan on the gathering’s launch, which continued his popularity as one in every of trend’s busiest males. ‘The artistic course of for me is gorgeous in addition to painful, as a result of part of my course of now could be, do now we have to take action a lot?’ he says. ‘I like longevity… I prefer to construct one thing up sturdy and arduous and so you will have it for a very long time.’